Skip to main content

Memorials


The second of our two lectures this morning had me a little concerned. The topic was "Designing Memory: The American War Cemeteries in France." I have an architectural sweet tooth, so I wasn't worried about being bored. But I was worried that the kids might be challenged to hang in on a presentation that was so much about aesthetics.

Was I ever wrong.

A still from Dr. Lemay's presentation of cemeteries in France. 

First, I have to give credit to the presenter, an art historian who works for the Smithsonian named Kate Lemay. She knew she had to do something to hook the students early, even if it was to randomly call on one student to ask them to read something (like a grave inscription) posted on the screen. It worked, normalizing the idea of the students participating before teachers had a chance to crowd them out. And in Q&A dialogue, she favored the students in who she called to speak.

When the session was finished, I happened to walk out and toward lunch with some of the boys who were in the session. I saw two (one from Hawaii, one from Mississippi) engaged in a rather serious discussion about the commemoration of Confederate war dead. Another boy talked about how surprised he was at the layers that existed in the controversies over how the monument could be designed. Lauren wanted to know at lunch what my perspective was on a rather serious dialogue we had regarding the way in which German war dead are honored in France.

Sounds controversial, doesn't it? What could be debatable about a cemetery?

Our presenter, Dr. Lemay, spent some time discussing the German war cemeteries in France. We're visiting one on the trip, La Cambe. The American government administers war cemeteries overseas through the American Battlefields and Monuments Commission. There's a similar organization in Germany, but it's not a government effort. Here's their website. Okay, so what's the controversy? Dr. Lemay, while contrasting design ideas between that monument and two American cemeteries in Normandy accidentally triggered a heartfelt discussion between students and teachers wondering why the French would permit German dead to be buried on their soil? Why were the German soldiers afforded an honor that so many victims of their occupation never received? Oh, and isn't it surprising that most French visitors prefer the German cemetery over the American ones? Wait, French are frequent visitors, much more so than Americans?

It was like another world cracked open for the students. And a few teachers, including me.

Dr. Lemay spent time on the controversy about repatriating American remains. We were the only power to offer families the right to return bodies home for burial here. And act that seems quite generous on the surface. But we quickly learned that there were economic, labor relations, diplomatic, and even Franco-American relations implications to us doing that. We learned about how the job of burying the dead and caring for their graves first fell, primarily, on the French. And the Normans had their own dead to bury. Normandy is the only region of France bombed by the Allies in their liberation, and the number of French civilian dead roughly equals Allied casualties suffered in the campaign to liberate Normandy.

I've seen this inscription before. I'll see it with new eyes on Tuesday.
The lecture was perfectly timed for us as a group. We're enough in to our work that the kids can hang in there on a topic as esoteric as this, and it lends much more meaning to their work in honoring the fallen soldiers they're studying.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Some Thoughts on Liberation

One of the markers placed by the French and Belgian governments to mark the path of the liberators.  My greatest takeaway from this most recent trip involves some refined feelings about liberation. I'm writing this post in a time of high cynicism. And the were matters of which one could be cynical back in 1944, the year in which Charlie fought and died. This trip, however, left me with renewed appreciation for what our country did back in that war, helping me refocus on what I've had the chance to see and do the past few years. Christopher is the military historian who accompanied us on this voyage. In one of our webinars this spring, he made an offhand reference to a piece of scholarship about the Holocaust he said was worth reading. It's entitled Bloodlands: Europe between Hitler and Stalin. It's heavy. I can't say I read every chapter. But I read most of it on our bus rides this summer. And I'm glad I did. My unassigned reading. Saying that Bloo

Those whom we honored (the final eulogies)

The chapel interior at Luxembourg American Cemetery. Most of us on the trip completed research for soldiers buried at Luxembourg American Cemetery. It's situated right outside of Luxembourg City and it receives a good number of visitors every year. The fact that General George Patton is buried there has something to do with their high visitorship. In fact, the initial attempt to bury him along with the soldiers failed when the foot traffic to his grave wore out the grass. Patton's grave now sits by itself near the top of the hill at the cemetery, near the chapel and tablets of the missing. Suzy's soldier. Six of us delivered eulogies that day: five teachers and Kaat. When I had the chance to listen to students' eulogies back in 2017, I was struck by how something of each student's character worked itself into the story they told. I still get a bit of a sense of that with eulogies delivered by teachers. However, the element that works itself more powerfull

About that observant fella . . .

Alan and I atop a Sherman. I often compliment my daughter on being observant (and she is!). In some ways, I'm trying to call her attention to something I wish I were better at. That is, being observant. Alan has the gift Caroline does. Two interesting examples of it. While trying to find dinner one night in Paris, Alan caught a sign written in French that said something-something about the times of Christ. Turns out, it was a pathway to an ancient Roman arena where gladiator matches might have once taken place. I know. It looks like a park or courtyard. It really is a relic of the Roman era, though, right in a neighborhood in Paris. On our final night of the trip came another moment. Alan came across a pair of stumbling stones, which we weren't aware existed in Belgium. Stumbling stones are a form of remembrance for victims of the Holocaust. They are placed in locations where individuals have memory of those victims last being seen. These were relatively